Cauliflower steaks and buffalo wings: can I make a hearty, dirty meal from this assertive brassica?
No-carbers have brought about an unexpected renaissance for the cauliflower as a basis for flour or rice – while some claim it can be a substitute for meat You wouldn’t think there was much space to innovate with a cauliflower. It’s such an unarguable thing, unmistakeable in appearance, inimitable in texture – dense and grainy, but with an underlying softness, like a gruff prison officer who secretly teaches people to read. But cauliflower is having its own technological revolution, an unexpected renaissance driven by the people who have excluded all the regular stuff from their diet and now need something to eat. Low-carb diets – paleo, keto, Dukan, there are even some old timers still doing Atkins – have been around since the late 80s, and enjoy regular surges in popularity every time obsessions reemerge over whether carbs are bad for you. Call carbs the old-fashioned slimmers’ exclusion. Veganism, pescetarianism and everything else in between are ethical exclusions, with perfectly sound and demonstrable foundations in sustainability and animal welfare; indeed, think too hard about it and we would all have to do it. And gluten is the allergy/intolerance exclusion. Like